Purchase a Door to fit the Rough Opening

The framed in rough door opening for the door is usually around 2” wider than the purchased pre-hung door (not including the frame/jamb around the door). This allows for adjustment when installing the door to achieve plumb ”level”. Many new replacement doors come with packaging that holds the door square during installation, do not remove this packaging until installation is complete.


Draw a Plumb Line Down the Drywall

Measure 1/2” in from the rough opening on the hinge side of the door. Using a 6′ or 4′ level, draw a ”LEVEL” line down the drywall.
”Make sure this line is perfectly level, this line determines plumb for installing interior door”


Attach the Door Installation Brackets to the Door Jamb

To start the installing interior door, place a door installation bracket behind each of the 3 (or more) hinges, make sure to align the brackets’ clearance hole behind one of the hinges screws. This will allow the addition of a long screw through the hinges and into the wall stud for additional support. Attach the remaining 3 brackets on the other side of the jamb. Place the first bracket 8” from the top, the next bracket just above the latch stop, and the final bracket 6” from the bottom of the door.


Installing Interior Door

Place 1/2” blocks under the door if carpet is going to be used or 1/4” blocks if laminate (not needed if floor is finished). Never place the door jamb directly on an unfinished floor. Place the interior door into the opening to begin installing interior door. Using the plumb line on the wall, screw in the top bracket on the hinge side of the door. Then screw in the next 2 brackets using the same reference notch as the first. After these 3 brackets are screwed into the wall using the same reference notch for each, the door is now perfectly level. Now check the margin (gap between door and door jamb) when screwing in the final 3 brackets. Start at the top of the door and check the margin when screwing in the top bracket. Check the margin when screwing in the final 2 brackets. The door will now be perfectly hung and the blocks under the door can now be removed.


Install the Door Casing (Trim) around the Door

The door casing/trim can now be installed. Using finishing nails, nail on the door casing to complete the installation. Remove the hinge screws that the bracket’s clearance hole was placed behind and replace with a 2” screw that will go through the hinge, bracket clearance hole, and into the wall stud for additional support. (you should place a shim or wood between the door frame and the wall to prevent the screw pulling (bending) the door frame towards the wall from over tightening.

Note: The Door Casing/trim will perfectly conceal the door installation brackets. Most trim has a milled out backside that allows perfect space for the brackets. If using flat back trim, you will simply need to hammer the brackets into the drywall a little bit.


Adjustment Screw Hole

Allows for easy adjustment for perfectly installing doors!

Reference Notches

Easy to see notches for perfectly aligning the brackets to the drawn ”Level/Plumb Line” on the wall. Ensures a perfectly level installation!

Quick Alignment Tabs

Aligns installation bracket perfectly flush to the door jamb/frame, ensuring perfect bracket placement!

Clearance Hole

When lined up directly behind the center hinge screws, allows for the removal of small hinge frame screws to be replaced with long set screws to reinforce the installation if heavy or solid-core!